Santiago

Santiago de Cuba, in the far east of the island, is Cuba's second city and one of its oldest — founded in 1515 and the first capital of the colony. Closer to Haiti and Jamaica than to Havana, it is the most Afro-Caribbean city in Cuba and the cradle of son, trova and bolero.

A Caribbean city

Santiago looks out to the Caribbean rather than to the Gulf of Mexico, and its culture reflects that. Spanish, African and — after the Haitian Revolution (1791–1804) — French and Afro-Haitian influences mixed here more strongly than anywhere else in Cuba. The Haitian migration brought the Tumba Francesa, which is still performed in the city today.

Cradle of son

Son grew up in the eastern countryside around Santiago and Guantánamo before it travelled to Havana in the early 20th century. Santiago musicians carried it west: Miguel Matamoros and his Trío Matamoros made some of the most influential son recordings of the 1920s and 30s, and later generations — Compay Segundo, Ibrahim Ferrer and Eliades Ochoa, all from the Santiago area — brought the eastern style to the world through the Buena Vista Social Club.

Trova and bolero

Santiago is the home of the trova: songs written and sung with the guitar. The great trovadores Pepe Sánchez and Sindo Garay worked here, and Pepe Sánchez's Tristezas (1883) is usually called the first Cuban bolero. The tradition is still alive in the Casa de la Trova on Calle Heredia, where musicians play every day.

Carnival and conga

Santiago's carnival in July is the most famous in Cuba. Neighbourhood comparsas parade through the streets behind the conga santiaguera: massed drums, bells and the shrill corneta china (Chinese cornet), with crowds dancing along behind them. It is one of the clearest places to feel how deeply Afro-Cuban rhythm runs through everyday street culture.

Why it matters for dancers

Much of what you dance in casino and timba started here: the son rhythm and the call-and-response between singer and coro. Santiago is also a reminder that Cuban music is not only Havana — the east has its own rhythmic character, rawer and closer to its African and Caribbean roots.